If you want a really short back-of-the-book guide to ammo types here it is:
Std. - Indicates "standard" of that caliber. FMJ is used as the baseline of damage and armor penetration.

☆ ★

Regular calibers:

Explosive Warheads:
A star based system will be used here since warheads vastly vary in capability and application

One of the biggest issues you'll run into using the full ammunition system is running into the mountain of different types of ammo and trying to decide what you want to keep and what you want to sell. These are the basics you need to know about ammunition:

This encompasses all guns or turrets that shoot "bullets" for the most part. This also includes some heavier-caliber guns all the way up to the twenty or so mm class.

• Full Metal Jacket (FMJ) - A lead projectile encased in a hardened metal "jacket", which helps keep the projectile uniform upon impact. FMJ rounds offer standard performance of that caliber and are generally a good all-rounder and relatively cheap to produce.
  
• Hollow Point (HP) - A lead projectile with the nose of the projectile hollowed out into an inverted cone. Upon striking something hard enough (ex: a human body), the shape of the hollowed point forces the lead projectile to expand larger than its initial diameter, causing a larger wound channel than other rounds. Hollow points offer increased raw damage, but are easily stopped by most armor. This makes them most effective against soft, unarmored targets, like animals and tribal factions.
  
• Armor Piercing (AP) - A projectile utilizing harder metals such as steel as opposed to softer metals like lead. Steel projectiles typically keep their shape upon impact, allowing them greater penetration against body armor. AP projectiles offer superior damage against heavier armor, but deal reduced overall damage compared to other rounds. This makes them wasteful and less effective against lightly armored targets compared to other types of ammunition.
  
  
• Armor Piercing Incendiary (AP-I) - An armor-piercing projectile with an incendiary component at the tip designed to deal extra damage to the target on successful penetration. AP-I projectiles deal an additional amount of burn damage to the target if they successfully penetrate the armor. Otherwise they are functionally similar to AP cartridges with a small damage boost.
  
• Armor Piercing High Explosive (AP-HE) - An armor-piercing projectile with a small explosive component at the tip. They can be though of as "Super FMJs". They usually have around the same armor penetration as FMJ but deal significantly increased damage, like hollow points.
  
  
• Sabot - A projectile smaller than the barrel of the weapon it is fired from, held in place by a device which is discarded immediately after the projectile leaves the barrel (the "Sabot"). Sabot rounds can be thought of as your "Super AP" rounds. They usually deal the least amount of direct damage but have the most armor penetration, making them valuable when dealing with heavily armored targets.
  
  
• Buckshot - A shotgun shell that fires a tight spread of nine pellets. Deadly at close and medium range, but buckshot can easily be stopped by a modest amount of armor. Most useful for the same things that HP ammo is useful against -- unarmored targets like animals or tribal enemies.
  
• Slug - A shotgun shell that fires a single massive projectile. What it lacks in sophistication it makes up for in kinetic energy. It might not outright penetrate the armor it hits, but the slug carries massive kinetic energy behind it which helps it simply crush through armor or deliver blunt damage behind it. While they have some range advantage over buckshot, they're not terribly accurate.
  
• EMP - Electrically charged projectile generally useful against mechanoids. Each shot of an EMP shell has a chance to stun a mechanoid (or turret) which can be useful to hold it in place for other beefier weapons to take aim. EMP burns also go through mechanoid armor, however a significant number are still needed to deal with larger mechanoids.
  
• Birdshot - A shotgun shell packed with many tiny pellets with a much wider spread. Birdshot has a higher overall total damage but virtually zero armor penetration. This makes them quite effective at wounding unarmored targets, but birdshot is almost instantly and completely stopped by most armor. Primarily, this is most useful for hunting.

This deals with larger types of rockets, shells, and most often rocket propelled grenade warheads.

• High Explosive (HE) - Simple, explosive warheads. HE warheads generate a large blast and usually a good number of secondary fragments, making them effective against unarmored targets and simple fortifications. They lack significant anti-armor capability.
  
• HE Time Fuzed - An HE warhead with an added timed fuze. These types of warheads always detonate directly over the tile they were fired at unless they hit something else first. This makes them particularly effective at placing your shot directly where you want it to explode, but they cost more materials to produce.
  
• Fragmentation - Similar to HE, however the actual blast is smaller while the amount of fragmentation is much larger. This makes fragmentation warheads much more effective at killing or wounding lightly armored groups of enemies, but reduces its effectiveness against fortifications and armor.
  
  
• Thermobaric - A warhead which disperses a fuel-air mixture upon impact which is subsequently ignited. The mixture is carefully engineered to explode quickly as the reaction consumes all available fuel and air dispersed in the area. This has an effect of creating a significant change in pressure capable of collapsing lungs and rupturing ear drums, in addition to a massive fireball which has potential to ignite nearby flammable objects. Thermobaric weapons are similar to HE warheads, but have a larger blast radius and generate no shrapnel. This makes them particularly effective against enemy infantry, even if they are moderately armored.
  
• Incendiary - A combination thermobaric/incendiary warhead. While it lacks the raw damage of a pure thermobaric warhead, it spreads an immense amount of incendiary compound in the area prior to igniting, causing a large amount of the impact area to be rendered unusable by flames and igniting anything flammable caught within. This is obviously effective at driving your opponents out of flammable structures, area-denial, and may subsequently cause any nearby ammunition or explosives to cook-off.
  
  
• Canister Shot - A warhead packed with buckshot. In essence, this is like firing close to a 100mm shotgun blast in someone's direction. That's as terrifying as it sounds. The canister shot finds its niche in dealing with densely packed groups of enemies in lines or columns, especially when firing in enfilade (through the entire enemy formation instead of into only a small part of it).
  
• Smoke - A warhead packed with a quick-dispersing smoke screen for screening movement. This can be most useful to fire at an enemy position (especially turrets) to significantly hamper their ability to fire back, but does no direct damage by itself.
  
• EMP - A warhead packed with an electromagnetic pulse warhead. The blast radius is slightly larger than an EMP grenade and will damage nearby electronic equipment and mechanoids in addition to stunning them for a significant amount of time. It is useful to lock down larger groups or more dangerous mechanoids from relative safety, however its up-front damage against heavier mechanoids demands conventional anti-tank weapons to be used in conjunction or numerous EMP warheads.
  
  
• High Explosive Anti-Tank (HEAT) - Some of the first anti-armor warheads produced. HEAT warheads use a shaped charge to shoot a molten copper plate at incredible temperatures and pressures into the target's armor on contact, vaporizing the armor and creating a hole where the rest of the explosive can be forced in. While effective against armor on direct hits, they lack area-of-effect against surrounding targets.
  
• High Explosive Dual Purpose (HEDP) - A stopgap between an HE and HEAT warhead, the HEDP warhead maintains decent effectiveness against armor while also producing a significant amount of fragmentation, making it somewhat effective against both armor and the soft targets around it.

This is the big one. The armor system is possibly the most overhauled and somewhat autistically simulated part of CE. Armor can easily make or break an engagement. A target clad in thick enough armor is virtually unkillable to an enemy without enough armor penetration to get through it. It is important to understand at least the basics of how armor functions.

Disclaimer; I am no Combat Extended Armor Expert. This will be an approximation of how I understand it works with help from reading the lengthy tooltips on the subject.

Welcome to the first acronym. All you really need to know is RHA is a thickness of specially prepared steel for use in vehicle armor that has since become a nice standard for measuring how far proposed projectiles can punch through them. RHA is specifically the measurement of "sharp" defense a piece of armor has, so it deals with things like blades and bullets.

If you see a ricochet and get a ping noise when attacking an enemy and no visible damage, that attack was completely stopped by armor. It doesn't mean its hopeless to attack them as you were, but its a bad sign. Even if an attack does penetrate armor, armor generally reduces the damage received by a significant margin.

Here are the bullet points you should know about sharp armor:

• Tough animals have natural armor - Especially animals like Thrumbos and large insects, you'll need more than just a pistol with FMJ to deal with them. Thrumbos especially you may be better off just hitting with an anti-tank weapon, as most small arms have a hard time dealing significant damage.
  
• Damage blocked is proportional to armor rating - This means that if your attack is 4mm RHA and the armor is 3mm RHA, you're still generally only doing 25% damage. Don't expect to be able to easily kill a target just because you barely surpass its armor rating.
  
• Armor becomes less effective as it absorbs damage - Natural armor on large animals can be worn down to half effectiveness at minimum. Worn pieces of armor will take damage and degrade as they prevent damage to their wearer. It is possible to wear down your target with overwhelming fire even if you cannot yet penetrate the armor.
  
• Every piece of clothing contributes to armor on their covered areas - Layering armor is an effective tactic to provide greater protection to your pawns even if you lack sophisticated armor. Layering a soft armor vest over a gambeson of decent quality and material might not be the same as an armor vest, but its better than just one or the other.
  
• Blunt attacks can ignore sharp armor - An attack with significant enough blunt force can still transmit a blunt attack through heavy sharp armor with a high RHA rating. Maces, mauls, shotgun slugs, and similar weapons are good tools for getting around armor in a pinch.
  
• Pawns with high relative skills can aim for specific body parts - You might not be able to get through a guy's chest armor, but why bother when you can just cut his head off? Pawns that are skilled enough can be instructed to target specific areas of the body when shooting (head, torso, legs), or even target specific body parts in melee (all the way down to hands or feet). If your enemies lack significant armor in a vulnerable area, you might be able to at least debilitate them by targeting weak areas. Enemies with steel armor vests could just have their arms or legs blown off, for example.

Anti-tank weapons behave a little specially. Most dedicated anti-tank munitions will deal a massive amount of damage with a direct hit with superior armor penetration, but the actual explosion (in the radius around the hit area) doesn't deal the same damage. This makes it important to get direct hits with your anti-tank weapons and not just hit nearby the target.

Here's the other weird but less important thing. Pretty much every attack also carries a blunt component with it. A sharp attack that gets stopped by armor gets turned into a blunt attack which can try to continue through any remaining blunt armor. With sharp armor, high strength, rigid materials are good at dealing with sharp damage. Blunt armor is different, and usually padded or thick armor is better at redistributing blunt attacks.

There's not a ton to know about blunt armor, but here's some pointers:[/list]

• Specialized blunt weapons can bypass sharp armor - Maces, mauls, and to some extent, bullets like shotgun slugs are good at getting some kinetic force through tough outer armor. It can be a worthwhile alternative (especially for melee weapons) if you can't find anything sharp enough to cut it.
  
• Blocked sharp attacks still carry momentum - Having enough sharp armor to stop attacks doesn't mean you're safe from damage. You might have blocked a shotgun blast to the torso with your soft body armor, but you're gonna feel the bruises on your chest still. While taking blunt damage is usually preferable to actually getting shot, you can still be in danger if you're consistently taking blunt damage to a critical area like the torso.
  
• Most organisms have inherent body part blunt armor - Just like with natural sharp armor, pretty much every body part has a built-in amount of blunt armor. This generally means larger or harder targets are more difficult to damage with blunt weapons, or they at least take some reduced blunt damage.
  
• Armor might be weak on particular body parts - While this is hard to capitalize on in a decisive manner, sometimes body part blunt armor doesn't cover the whole body. Certain areas might have weaker armor like the neck or eyes. This goes for sharp armor too.

What sharp armor generally means for your ranged weapons is you need to consider your pawn's role in an engagement and consider what tools you have availble should the target have a ton of armor or no armor at all. Keeping just one or the other causes problems on both sides: having low armor pen means armored enemies will be very difficult to take down, but having entirely high armor penetration (ex: using AP ammo) might mean you are losing a significant amount of effectiveness against soft targets. Try to keep a mix of both if you can, or have dedicated colonists for dealing with armor.

Anti-tank weapons are especially important. There are some "magic CE numbers" in terms of RHA that you need to keep in mind. 6mm RHA is about the external armor of Scythers and Lancers (the smaller humanoid mechanoids) as well as larger insects. You can still damage parts of it without 6mm RHA, but having at least this much is a good idea to be able to reliably kill them.

16mm RHA is about the external armor of a Centipede mechanoid. This is probably one of the more important ones because majority of your colonists' personal weapons are unlikely to be able to deal with it on its own, even with AP ammo. 5.56 ammo is almost entirely useless against this armor, while 7.62 AP only gets by if used en-masse.

This is why it is a good idea to have disposable or reusable AT weapons floating around your colonist's loadout. At the least they can deliver a very solid "punch" through enemy armor. EMP weaponry also ignores armor, but doesn't do a lot of direct damage itself (the stun might allow you time to get an AT weapon on target).

Unfortunately melee weapons are kind of crap against armor in general. Most melee weapons can barely get above 2-3mm RHA even when made of decent quality and good materials (plasteel, etc). Melee critical hits can do double armor penetration, but it also has to be an attack type (randomly chosen) that has good armor penetration. This kind of makes melee way more of a gamble then it should be.

Blunt melee weapons are sometimes heavier and don't deal as much up-front damage, b

There's at least an almost triple digit number of CE gun mods out there so I am going to try to lay out general calibers and what they're usually used for. Trying to do weapon classes ends up way too much.

Im gonna be quick. These suck. Bows and crossbows are really only threatening against any modern equipment when using at least decent steel arrows and when they're not packing something like recon or marine armor. Neolithic weapons do sometimes have an advantage of arrow strikes causing massive bleeding, but that's about it.

Most early gunpowder cartridges have better overall range and slightly higher armor penetration compared to most neolithic weapons, but they're abysmally slow to load

Pistol caliber cartridges are some of the most basic cartridges out there. They're small and generally weak, but the weapons that use them are usually light, controllable, or you can pack a lot of rounds in a single magazine. Pistols are either your starting weapons early on in your colony, or your backup weapons for personal protection for your non-combat personnel.

While usually relatively small and light, pistol cartridges generally don't get anything beyond HP, FMJ, and AP, so they lose an edge later on when you start using AP-I/HE or Sabot rounds and they almost always have a tough time with even light amounts of armor. Some calibers in this area are .22, 9x19mm, .45, and 5.7x28mm.

Some types of weapons in this area are:

• Pistols - Standard blowback pistols. Decent capacity, lightweight, but held back by their cartridge and range.
  
• Machine Pistols - Blowback pistol usually with a big magazine and fully automatic fire. They can spit a lot of bullets quickly, but are usually heavier, have worse accuracy, and even worse range. They're only a good option when fighting indoors or at a very close distance.
  
• SMGs/PDWs - Larger, two-handed weapons chambered in a pistol caliber. They're much heavier compared to just a pistol, but lighter than a full rifle. This makes them very easy to control and they usually sport a good magazine capacity, but they're still held back in damage by their caliber. They're good for non-combatants when just a pistol isn't enough insurance.

Revolver calibers share a lot of similarities with pistols but they deserve a bit of their own section. They're a bit of a class of their own sporting much more significant damage and some modest armor penetration when using specialized rounds. Unfortunately most revolvers or weapons using revolver cartridges usually suffer from rather low magazine capacity and are almost always single-shot, restricting their fire rate to precise shots instead of bursts of automatic fire.

They're capable of a fair shake more than regular pistols, but they're still held back by a relatively small cartridge and lack of specialized ammo. Some examples in this class are .357 Magnum and .44 Magnum.

Some types of weapons in this area are:[/list]

• Revolvers - Good old wheel gats. Compared to pistols, they're significantly heavier and have much lower magazine capacity, but they hit harder and usually have better accuracy.
  
• Lever-action rifles - Some lever action rifles are chambered for larger revolver cartridges. This solves a few issues with revolvers; namely increasing the capacity significantly and increasing effective range. They're still rather slow, incapable of automatic fire, and the caliber isn't the best. But its a lot better than using just a pistol or revolver.

Pistols put holes in people. Rifles put holes through people. Shotguns punch fist-sized holes clear out of people at close range. What they lack in range they make up for in flexibility and close-range lethality. The shotgun is generally the king of flexibility and indoor engagements, but vast majority of shotgun shells will lose effectiveness once forced into a longer range engagement.

There are a frankly staggering number of things you can put into a shotgun shell to some decent effect, and all shotguns can use pretty much any shotgun shell you can feed them in this mod (thankfully, it would suck if semi-auto shotguns only liked one type of shell like they do in reality). Just some examples are buckshot, slugs, EMP slugs, breaching shells, birdshot, and beanbag shells.

Having anyone carrying a shotgun carry multiple types of ammunition can be an efficient use of inventory space, allowing them to realistically respond to most threats without having to run to an armory. This does generally mean though that they won't be carrying as much overall ammo if you're splitting it up between a bunch of types. Some examples of shotgun shells are the ubiquitous 12 Gauge, .410 Gauge, and the 23mm shells for the KS-23.

Some examples of weapons in this category:

• Pump-Action - Like a bolt-action, has to be pumped after every shell. These do have a marked advantage in that reloading can be interrupted at any point, so in an emergency you can tell your pawn to fire a single loaded round at a time quickly.
  
• Semi-automatic - Fires shells sequentially, in bursts or automatically. Can dispense a lot more lead downrange much more quickly, but it can be easy to waste shells and reloading takes longer than a pump-action.
  
• Revolver/Lever - Some .45 caliber weapons are also capable of firing .410 shotgun shells, like the Taurus Judge (revolver) and some lever-action rifles. This makes them somewhat flexible, though .410 shells are somewhat weak against anything larger than a smaller animal.

The smaller end of rifle sized cartridges. These start to show promising range and decent damage, making them a good middle ground. Most rifles are adaptable or serviceable as general weapons, and a lot of them have multiple firing modes giving them good flexibility at medium or close range. The standard ammunition types like FMJ are decent at dealing with light armor, while the AP types of ammunition are capable of dealing OK damage to medium armor (like lighter mechanoid units and some more sophisticated body armor). Exemplar cartridges are similar to 5.56x45mm NATO and 5.45x39mm on the soviet side.

Some examples of weapons in this category:

• Scout Rifles - Semi-automatic rifles like a Mini-14 in a small rifle cartridge. Good range, light recoil, but not as good up close.
  
• Carbines/Assault Rifles - Standard rifles. Carbines are scaled-down versions of rifles trading accuracy and range for portability and weight.
  
• Light Machine Guns - LMGs. Usually a very big magazine size and good sustained fire, but heavy. Primarily used to suppress enemy units so other units can get a clear shot.

The larger rifle cartridge. Good damage and armor penetration, but weapons using it tend to be heavier and the ammunition itself starts to add up in weight.

A general guideline on what levels of armor and penetration are expected at different values.

The only things with this little armor are standard clothing or garments that are otherwise mostly unarmored. At this level of armor the clothing itself isn't really doing much unless stacked together and the offending attack has barely any armor penetration itself. People within this level of protection would strongly be considered unarmored.

The only real weapons with this level of armor penetration are pistols with hollow point ammunition and light shotgun shells like birdshot. Some melee weapons on weaker attacks may have low penetration as well.

This can be thought of as fairly routine and common ranges of equipment and armor. For the most part you would consider people within this range to be mostly unarmored. Apparel in this category is mostly padded (gambeson, flak jacket) or layered regular clothing, or regular clothing made out of high-end materials (like devilstrand or hyperweave).

This level of armor at least protects somewhat against attacks with barely any armor penetration or significantly reduces it, which helps reduce the overall damage the wearer takes from any given attacks. Weapons in this category would be very small pistols and some low caliber rifles with hollowpoint ammunition and the regular ammunition of some very small calibers.

Some melee weapons on stabbing attacks have at least this much armor penetration, though this is a fairly low amount. Keep in mind that critical hits get double armor penetration when they land.

This is what you would start considering "definitely not completely unarmored". Light armor in this area is a capable opponent against weak projectiles without significant armor penetration, including very low handgun calibers and some types of shotgun shells like birdshot. While not absolutely impervious to buckshot, it can still significantly reduce its damage by a great factor until the armor is compromised.

Most soft armor vests fall into this category, as well as some flak jackets or other protective equipment. Weapons in this armor penetration range are the ammunition of most pistols, some shotgun shells, and some of the lower quality ammunition of small rifles.

This is medium armor and where armor starts becoming a significant obstacle. Armor in this area is generally impervious to most pistol calibers, most shotgun shells that fire more than one projectile, and weak rifle calibers. Massed or repeated attacks are required to wear down this level of armor with weaker projectiles, or more powerful projectiles are required to penetrate the armor.

Weapons around this level of armor penetration are the AP ammunition of some rifles and the standard or AP ammunition of some full-sized rifles (using cartridges like 7.62 NATO). Shotgun slugs or similar types of shotgun shells are sometimes capable of either penetrating or simply crushing through this armor with a blunt attack.

Full external armor vests, very high quality soft vests or flak jackets (or a combination), or cremaric vests usually fall into this level of protection.

Notably, this is about the armor strength that most small mechanoid units have, such as lancers and scythers. Such armor can be worn down with repeated attacks, but outside of that your only other options are heavier armor penetration, using incendiary or explosive weapons, or disengaging.

This is medium to heavy armor, and this is where your conventional weapons start to fail to kill things. This is the level of armor some heavier mechanoid units start to sport and the level of armor that vast majority of weapons have trouble getting through.

Weapons with this level of penetration are the AP cartridges of full sized rifles, Sabot cartridges of some smaller rifles, and ammunition for anti-material rifles or weapon emplacements (like .50 cal or larger).

Apparel in this level of protection are layered and combined high quality armor vests or full external armor vests like recon and marine armors. Generally this is the highest level of protection a pawn can be afforded from apparel.

These are some of the heaviest armors. Mechanoid Centipedes notably weigh in at about 32mm RHA, making them extremely heavily armored. Vast majority of conventional cartridges, unless large and saboted, are unlikely to deal a lot of damage to this armor.

This is where your specialized anti-tank weapons come into play: recoilless rifles, rocket launchers, anti-material rifles, emplacements, and artillery. Launchers can use HEAT projectiles with armor penetration in the 300mm RHA area, almost always dealing near full damage to most armored targets. Explosive damage both wears down the armor and deals some damage through it on direct hits.

CE adds a bunch of apparels that can be difficult to decide what's good to wear and what's a waste of time. A lot of armor strikes the obvious balance between mobility versus protection, and your colonists carrying heavy equipment usually cannot also be heavily armored unless they've been augmented out.


Most standard armor vests cover the torso and critical internal organs inside it. Unfortunately, they're usually quite heavy, though being overencumbered is sometimes preferable to being shot and bleeding.

• Soft Armor Vest - About 4mm-8mm RHA, depending on quality and material. Must be made out of Synththread, Devilstrand, Thrumbofur, or Hyperweave, with Hyperweave being the most protective. The lightest vest coming in to about 3-4kg, but still offers substantial protection against most basic projectiles and fragmentation that hits the chest area. Its special material requirements sometimes makes them a pain to manufacture in number.
  
• Armor Vest - About 12mm-25mm RHA, depending on quality and material. Plasteel is lighter and much more protective then steel, if you can afford it. Weighs about 8-11kg but offers substantial and relatively long-lasting protection to the chest.
  
• Composite Armor Vest - About 16mm RHA, and uses devilstrand as a component. Lighter than an armor vest, but not as durable and degrades under fire more quickly. This particular vest also has add-on coverage extensions that cover some extra areas like the legs and arms.

If you have the choice between a vest and a helmet, you might just want to take a helmet. Pawns in CE "crouch down" to the height of the cover they're behind, only exposing their heads to take shots. This unfortunately makes any shot that hits them hit them square in the head, usually killing them immediately. Helmets can make these significantly more survivable, albeit probably with brain damage.

• Simple Helmet - About 8-16mm RHA depending on quality and material. Plasteel is much better if you can afford it. Only protects the head and not the eyes, jaw, nose, yadayada but it should prevent some brain damage some of the time.
  
• Composite Helmet - Its like the composite armor vest. More protection, less durable.
  
• Combined Composite Helmet - A composite helmet with protection addons covering the ears and jaw, but is significantly heavier. Offers better protection at the cost of weight.
  
• Recon Helmet - About 16mm RHA. Full head coverage and some built in night-vision to help reduce the penalty of shooting in poor lighting.
  
• Marine Helmet - About 24mm RHA. Full head coverage, better night vision and protection then the recon helmet.

This is pretty much the "everything else "category.

• Tactical Vest - A little extra weight, but increases reload speed by about 10% and allows some additional carrying capacity, making it a net improvement to wear.
  
• Backpacks - Provides a significant boost to carrying capacity, but no armor.
  
• Gambeson - A skin-layer uniform worn under everything else like common clothing. Gambesons have at least some padding and protection making them somewhat better than regular clothing as far as armor goes, but they can sometimes be expensive to manufacture.
  
• Flak Jacket/Pants - Bulky outer jackets and pants designed to provide a low level of armor protection across a large portion of the body. While they're somewhat heavy they are exceptionally useful against fragmentation and low-caliber, low-AP rounds. They can also be worn over top of armored vests for additional protection of the torso in addition to protection of the extremities.
  
• Boots/Gloves - They're not terribly important but they provide some insulation and protection to hands/feet.
  
• Ballistic Goggles - Mildly protective eyewear that covers both eyes, primarily for fragmentation. They're better than having shrapnel directly injected into your eyes.
  

• High-Explosive - The standard, exploding shell. Has a modest blast radius and spreads some additional fragments within the detonation area. Effective against fortifications and exposed infantry, but lacks a very large area of effect, usually requiring a large volume of fire or precise shots.
  
• High-Explosive Airburst - Detonates above the ground into a large number of lethal shell fragments in a wide area, but does not deal explosive damage like standard HE. The wide shower of fragments from above makes it exceptionally effective against exposed infantry and lightly armored targets, but the lack of blast damage limits its effectiveness against entrenched enemies and significant armor. Almost completely ineffective against structures and tends to miss targets directly under the impact zone.
  
• Smoke - Disperses a large cloud of smoke on impact. Completely blocks line of sight of turrets and reduces the accuracy and aiming efficiency of pawns attempting to shoot through it. It is mostly helpful to cover an advance against turrets and not for screening against human or mechanoid targets.
  
• Incendiary - Inflicts the prometheum-soaked debuff on all targets hit and ignites them in a large radius, in addition to spreading prometheum puddles within the impact area. Prometheum on pawns cannot be extinguished without assistance from another (non-burning) pawn or firefoam, making it extremely effective at dispersing or destroying clumped infantry. Prometheum puddles will not be extinguished until it is hit with firefoam or burns out, also making it an effective area-denial tool if fired repeatedly in the same area. Can still damage mechanoids, however they're much more resistant to fire.
  
• EMP - Creates a moderately-sized EMP burst on impact which temporarily stuns mechanoids and turrets, allowing them to be destroyed with other weaponry easily. Mechanoids also take direct EMP-burn damage from EMP blasts, though in the grand scheme of things this is comparatively negligible unless against smaller models or used en-masse.
  
• Foam - Spreads fire-retardant firefoam on the area of impact. This both extinguishes any existing flames and prevents new fires in any area where firefoam still lingers. While the use-cases are limited, this can be used as an emergency fire-fighting tool or to create a firebreak by lining an area in foam, preventing fire from burning through it.
  
  
• 60mm Portable Mortar - 15kg, single-man mortar using 60mm mortar rounds. The weapon and its shells (approx 2.5 kg each) are conceivably light enough to be carried by one pawn with little assistance as long as compromises are made to lighten their load in other areas. The 60mm is unfortunately wildly inaccurate without support from a spotter, but a few of them can work if simply bombarding a larger area or working with a spotter.
  
• 81mm Mortar - 32kg standard mortar (though can be made out of platsteel to get it down to 24kg), with ammunition coming in at about 5.2 kg per shell. Would normally be served by about 2-3 crew members. Offers dependable performance but can be somewhat bulky to move around frequently. 81mm mortars can also attack other map tiles within a 10 tile radius, either indirectly (bombarding hostile settlements wholesale) or precisely if another pawn with binoculars and a radio pack designates a spot within the other map tile.
  
• 105mm Howtizer - An insanely heavy (1,500kg) field artillery piece. It functions almost exactly like a mortar but packs more punch per shell. In addition, it can attack other map tiles within a 20 tile radius, giving it a very effective edge in providing off-map artillery support to caravans or other units, or blowing up bothersome outposts and settlements.
  
  
• Binoculars - Using binoculars fires a "dummy projectile" which creates a temporary artillery mark at the location fired at (though it can also target enemies directly if you want). Any artillery piece attacking a tile with an artillery mark on it will gain a very large accuracy bonus and use the spotter's shooting skill instead of their own for accuracy calculations. This can be used to great effect to land the initial mortar shells exactly where you need them, or to bomb particularly troublesome targets.
  
• Radio Pack - A 7kg backpack taking up the back slot. Its hefty and stops you from using an actual bag to have your pawn carry things, but when used in conjuction with a radio allows you to designate targets in one map for any artillery within range on other maps to attack. Once the target is designated, you can go to the other map, select the artillery piece, attack by world tile, and zoom in on the artillery mark to select it. Unfortunately off-map artillery can only target artillery marks. Also keep in mind that a pawn needs both binoculars and a radio pack to designate off-map artillery.