I've made this guide to make it easier for you to set up your car. This is just guidelines, and you have to test a bit to find the best setup for you and your driving style.

At the bottom of each section are my recomendations, and how i like it. If you don't want to spend so much time testing, you can allways use them.

When testing this settings, i used the Polo R WRC, so it applies to all cars in the WRC class.

Happy rallying!

There are two types of tires that you can choose from; hard and soft. The hard tyre is used in dry conditions and hot temperatures, the soft tires is used in wet conditions and in lower tempratures.

On aspalt:
The hard tyre is used on abressive aspalt and the soft tires is used on smooter aspalt.

On Gravel:
The hard tyre is used on compact gravel, and the soft tires is used on looser gravel or mud.

I usaly keep the ssuspension, shock absorbers and the shock absorber reboud exactly the same, mostly because it won't do much to the handling if you change them sepatatly.

(When i say suspension in this guide it refers to all of those components)

I think it's quite obvious what the suspension does, but for anyone who doesn't know: the suspension absorbs the unevenness of the road (To put it simple (verry simple))

You want to keep the suspension as hard as you can, since softer suspension reduces handling, and how fast the car will change direction.

The suspension should be hardest (not as hard as you can, but harder than on any other surface) on asphalt, as it's the smoothest, a bit softer on gravel, and the softest on snow (again, not as soft as you can, but softer than on any other surface)

If the rear is harder then the front, it will increase oversteer, and vice versa

My recomendations:
On asphalt and gravel I like to keep the rear a bit harder than the front, to get some oversteer. (one notch or someting like that) On gravel i keep the stiffness around middel, and on asphalt one or two notches from the hardest

On snow I keep it the same stiffness and thats aroud two notches from the softest

The anti-roll bar is a quite important part, and when you change it, you will notice it a bit more compared to when you change other things. The anti-roll bar connects the two wheels that are on the same axel, to reduce the sideways tilting of the chassi when turning fast etc.

If the anti-roll bar is softer, the car can tilt more, so you want too keep that as hard as possible as well, and it can be similar to the suspension.

My recomendations:
Asphalt: 2/3, or a little bit more
Gravel: 1/2
Snow: 0

I like to keep it one notch harder at the rear on asphalt and gravel to reduce understeer, while on snow I have both the front and rear at the same stiffness

This sets how high the car is, but when the car is higher, the suspension can move more and that results in a more unstabe car. So a low car has better handling, but is more likely to hit something.

So you want to keep the car as low as possible without having the risk of hitting something. So on smoother surfaces, the car should be quite low, and on rougher surfaces it should be higher.

Now, the evenness of snow isn't the same all the time, because it depends on what's under. In Sweden it's gravel and on Monte carlo it's asphalt, wich is smoother.

My recomendations:
About one notch from the lowest on asphalt, and some notches lower then the highest on gravel.
I allways keep it the same on the front and back

The differential is there so that the wheels on the same axel can spin at different speeds, e.g. when you turn, the wheels on the inside have to travel a shorter distance. Without the differential, the wheels would have been forced to spin at the same speed, and the inside wheels would have slipped. But thats not allways a bad thing.

On a rallly car there is a limited slip differential, as you can hear on the name it limits how much the wheels can slip, and thats what you set up.

The front diff should be verry open (to the left). if it isn't, the inner wheel would spin to fast and the car would understeer. If the rear diff is more closed (to the right) the car will oversteer, for the same reason that the car understeers when the front diff is closed.

The gear ratio determines how fast the top speed is, but higer to speed results in lower acceleration, you can think on a bike, a higher gear is heavier, but you don't have to pedal as fast to go fast. its the same principe on a car.

When the gear ratio is shorter (more to the left) the top speed is slower but acceleration faster, and for longer ratio (more to the right) its vice versa.

My recomendations:
On gravel and asphalt, I keep the front diff almost fully open, and the rear diff one notch more closed.
On snow i keep the differential around midddle and the rear a more closed.

The gear ratio should be shorter (more to the left) on curvy and tricky stages, to while on straight and wide stages, where you can drive faster, it should be longer (more to the right)

I think you all know what the brakes does, they slow down the car. But they can also be used to initiate a drift.

If the brakes are more at the back, the car will drift easier, and the car will stop slower, and when they are more at the front, the car will stop faster, but understeer more.

My recomendations:
The brakes should take equaly at both the back and the front on snow and gravel. On asphalt, the brakes should take more at the front, but be carefull not to brake while turning as the car will understeer alot.
The handbrake should be a bit stronger on asphalt, and on gravel and snow it can be standard

Even if I've tested this setup quite a bit and written this gudie from how a real car work, some things can be wrong. So feel free to tell me if you think something is wrong, or if i should add something. I'm open to suggestions and more tips on how to set up the car in the best possible way.